Tachikawa Yagawa Green Space Walk: Springs, Hake Cliffs and History

Residents of the wetland: bur-reed, the Buddha loach, and the kingfisher

The stars of the wetland are not people.

The Metropolitan Government’s Famous Springs page introduces the Yagawa Green Space as a place of relaxation not only for Tachikawa’s citizens but for Tokyo residents widely, and as a habitat for precious creatures such as the hotoke-dojo. The hotoke-dojo — literally “Buddha loach” — is a small loach that likes clean, cold water. Every year the city of Tachikawa tests the Yagawa’s water quality twice and surveys its fish once. According to the 2025 Environment Book, the water quality was good, and the hotoke-dojo (an endangered species), which lives in clean water, was confirmed. The Yagawa has no water-quality standard of its own, so the city compares it with the standard for the Tama River it eventually flows into. It has never exceeded the standard.

A fish named after the Buddha is holding out against extinction in a residential brook in Tachikawa. If anything, it is the fish you feel like praying to.

The Metropolitan Government’s trail guide says that plants such as bur-reed and yanagimo pondweed grow in the Yagawa’s current, that creatures such as shima-amenbo water striders can be seen, and that wild birds such as spot-billed ducks and little egrets gather. The Tachikawa Tourism and Convention Association calls the bur-reed (mikuri) “very rare”. In photos in the government’s leaflet, mikuri is a water plant whose long thin leaves stream out in the current. According to the government’s record, it grows intertwined with other water plants according to differences in depth and speed. Fast places, slow places, deep places, shallow places. Even inside a two-metre stream, the residents have their own neighbourhoods.

Plants are not the only ones making the wetland. The government’s guide, after saying that many creatures can be seen in and around the brook that gathers the spring water at the foot of the cliff, continues in a tone almost addressed to a child: turn over a stone and you will surely find mayfly and caddisfly larvae living on tiny water plants. In the water, fish that eat them; hunting the fish, little egrets and kingfishers. Woodland on the cliff top, wetland at the cliff foot, current in the stream. Each has its own life, and they are connected by eating and being eaten. The guide calls the cliff line “a model garden of ecosystems”.

From spring into early summer the wetland is at its greenest. In autumn the grass heads sway; in winter the trees drop their leaves and the shapes of the wetland and the stream show clearly. Because the spring water’s temperature hardly changes all year, on a cold winter morning the surface of the stream alone can seem a little softer than everything around it. It is hard to name one best season for the wetland. Each time you go, different residents are out front.

The wanderer’s quiz

“Tokyo’s 57 Famous Springs” were announced by the Metropolitan Government in January 2003. How many springs from Tachikawa were chosen? (A) 1 (B) 3 (C) 5. The answer is revealed at the end.

Enough about the wetland’s residents. The first to be grateful for this cliff’s water was not the kingfisher or the Buddha loach. It was humans, long, long ago.

A village 5,000 years old: the Mukogo site above the cliff

North of the Yagawa Green Space, one step higher, lies the Mukogo archaeological site.

The city of Tachikawa calls it the most famous archaeological site in the city. It sits on the edge of the Tachikawa cliff line, looking down on the Yagawa Green Space, and has been known since before the war. The first excavation was in 1945, and it has been investigated more than a hundred times since. A hundred times. Dig up the same place that often and things still come out. The ground of Tachikawa is like an old man with a very long story.

The site’s core periods are the Palaeolithic and the Jomon (Japan’s prehistoric hunter-gatherer era), and best known is a Middle Jomon settlement. According to the city, in the first half of the Middle Jomon — the Katsusaka phase, roughly 5,400 to 5,000 years ago — there was a village a little away from the cliff line, around today’s Hagoromocho 3-chome intersection. In 1966, during water-main work near that intersection, a few pieces of Katsusaka-style pottery were found, and in 1970 the two in the best condition became Tachikawa City Treasures — what are now called city-designated tangible cultural properties.

Five-thousand-year-old pots, turned up by water-main work. Digging to bring water in, they found the vessels of people who had lived beside water. As coincidences go, it is almost too neat.

In the second half of the Middle Jomon — the Kasori E phase, roughly 5,000 to 4,500 years ago — the settlement moved to the edge of the cliff line. Excavation at the site of the municipal Nishikicho housing revealed a plaza at the centre of the village, ringed concentrically by a burial ground, a cluster of pits and a cluster of pit-dwelling remains. It is the form called a ring-shaped settlement. The burial ground held more than 290 grave pits, and in some of them Jomon pots were found upside down. This is thought to be kamekaburi-so, “pot-covered burial”, in which the dead were buried with a pot placed over the head. Pendants of amber and soapstone also came from the graves. In 2013 these pots and ornaments were together designated a city tangible cultural property as “Artefacts Excavated from the Ring-Shaped Grave Group of the Mukogo Site”.

Why did the village move to the cliff edge? The city’s walking-route commentary says modestly that the people of the Mukogo site, who left traces from the Palaeolithic and Jomon periods nearby, must also have used this plentiful spring water. The top of the cliff is dry and flat, good for building homes. At the foot of the cliff is water that never runs dry all year. Live above, draw water below. The way of life chosen 5,000 years ago is not so different from life in today’s Hagoromocho, where houses on the cliff top look down over the wetland.

In explaining the role of springs, the Metropolitan Government notes that many Jomon sites have been found around springs, such as those along the upper Nogawa River, and writes that springs are thought to have been closely tied to people’s lives since ancient times as one source of everyday water. The Yagawa is one example. North of the municipal housing stands an information board for the Mukogo site.

After thinking about the 5,000-year-old village on the cliff top, I go back down the cliff towards the water. At the bottom, white snakes are waiting.

Yagawa Benzaiten and its guardian snakes: what protects the water at the foot of the cliff

Near the source of the Yagawa stands the Yagawa Benzaiten shrine.

According to the Tachikawa Tourism and Convention Association, an old roadside shrine to Benzaiten — the goddess of water, music and the arts — stood on the bank of the Yagawa; the family who inherited it along with the land built a precinct and a new shrine around the end of the Taisho era (the mid-1920s) and enshrined it as the Yagawa Benzaiten. It has been looked after privately, by one family, generation after generation. Counting from the end of Taisho, that is nearly a hundred years of one household caring for a town’s water goddess. There is also a legend that the old shrine was the guardian deity of “Minowa Castle”, which once stood nearby. On another walking course, the association calls it “the phantom Minowa Castle”. Add the word “phantom” and a castle somehow looks much grander.

In the precinct, white snakes — Benzaiten’s messengers — sit on the bridge railings and serve as guardian statues. The association’s walking-course description calls this “greeting the guardian snakes instead of guardian lion-dogs”. Instead of the usual pair of lion-dogs, two snakes are watching you. When greeting them, you find your voice dropping. There is also a dragon-god pond with carp swimming in it.

Enshrining Benzaiten beside water is common all over Japan. As examples of springs long linked to temples and shrines, the Metropolitan Government names Jindai-ji, Kokubun-ji and Fudo-no-Taki. The Yagawa Benzaiten is surely a small member of that lineage. But this precinct has been kept privately by one family for generations. The association’s guide gives visiting hours: from April to October, 8:00 to 18:00; from November to March, until 17:00. If you visit, do so within those hours and put your hands together quietly.

The shrine sometimes appears on screen. According to the association’s record of filming locations, on 4 January 2013 TV Asahi’s information programme Tokyo Site featured the Yagawa Benzaiten as a Tachikawa landmark for its first broadcast of the Year of the Snake. A white-snake goddess for New Year in the Year of the Snake. I warm to the near-pun earnestness of whoever planned that. In 2023, the Benzaiten’s surroundings and “Minowa-dori” street appeared in episode 8 of the Fuji TV drama Ninja ni Kekkon wa Muzukashii (“Marriage Is Hard for Ninjas”). Of the shoot, the association writes that the actors were allowed to run flat out. Ninjas sprinting full tilt down a street that keeps the name of the phantom Minowa Castle. The legend itself seems rather pleased.

The spring beside the Benzaiten gives 620 cubic metres a day in the Environment Book’s table. Right next to the place of prayer, the water keeps welling up.

From here, the stream heads for Kunitachi. Let us follow the second half of its 1.3-kilometre journey.

The end of a 1.3-kilometre journey: Mamashita Spring and Yagawa Ondashi in Kunitachi

The Yagawa flows from south-east Tachikawa into south-west Kunitachi. Beyond the city boundary, the cliffs and springs continue.

Among the Metropolitan Government’s woodland walking trails is the “Yagawa–Aoyagi Course”, 5.9 kilometres long. Starting at Yagawa Station on the Nambu Line, it goes from the Yagawa Green Space Conservation Area south along the Yagawa, past Mamashita Spring, the Yagawa Ondashi, the Shiroyama of Yaho Historic Environment Conservation Area and Shiroyama Park, and ends at Yaho Station. The government’s leaflet gives directions: change at Tachikawa Station, 30 minutes from Shinjuku on the JR Chuo Line, and get off at Yagawa Station, 10 minutes away on the Nambu Line. The trail’s nickname is “the Babbling Brook Path”.

Mamashita Spring (ママ下湧水) is in Yagawa 3-chome, Kunitachi. As I said, mama is the local word for a cliff — so the name means “the spring below the cliff”. The government introduces it as the representative spring of the Aoyagi cliff line, with one of the largest flows in Tokyo, loved by local people and visited all year round by people from outside the city. It is number 39 among Tokyo’s 57 Famous Springs. Nearby, the “Tokiwa no Shimizu” spring at Yaho Tenmangu Shrine was chosen as number 40. The numbers of the famous springs line up like stepping stones along the stream: 22 at the Yagawa Green Space, then 39, then 40.

The point where the Yagawa runs down the terrace cliff and joins the Fuchu irrigation channel is called the “Yagawa Ondashi”. Together with the cliff’s woodland, the paddy fields and pear orchards preserve the old landscape, the government writes.

Very recently, the Yagawa Ondashi gained new protection. According to the government’s list, on 27 March 2025 Kunitachi’s “Yagawa Ondashi Satoyama Conservation Area” was designated. It covers 13,972 square metres. Its number is 51. From the upstream Yagawa, protected as number 7 in 1977, to the downstream number 51 nearly half a century later: one small stream holds both an old-timer and a newcomer among Tokyo’s conservation areas, at its top and its bottom.

The government’s document prepared before the designation describes the area as satoyama near the southern tip of the Aoyagi terrace of the Musashino Plateau, made up of woodland, farmland and a spring-fed stream. The Yagawa runs north to south through the middle of the area and joins the Fuchu irrigation channel together with a spring channel right below the cliff line. The survey confirmed 335 species of insects alone, in 132 families and 14 orders; 34 species of birds; 8 of fish; and 282 species of plants in 94 families. Notable species listed include the Buddha loach, the Genji firefly, the kingfisher, the Japanese brown frog, the kitsune-no-kamisori lily and the nagae-mikuri bur-reed.

Water that welled up from Tachikawa’s cliff waters Kunitachi’s paddies, raises fireflies and enters the irrigation channel. The name “Yagawa” ends after 1.3 kilometres, but the water itself carries on its journey under the name of an irrigation channel.

Solving the mystery: why doesn’t it dry up in winter?

Now, back to the first question. Why is a stream that never runs dry born in a residential district of Tachikawa?

Half the answer lies in the landform. Tachikawa is a town on a staircase cut into the plateau by the ancient Tama River. The cliff between one step and the next — the hake — cuts off the flow of groundwater, and water seeps out from the cut. The Yagawa is a stream that bundles water welling up from many points along that cut. Because its sources are scattered along the cliff, rather than a single spring, the flow does not stop even if one weakens. That is how I read it.

The other half lies in the land above the cliff. What feeds the springs is the rain that falls on the housing above. In the Metropolitan Government’s surveys, Tokyo’s springs have been gradually decreasing: from 616 sites in fiscal 2013 to 608 in fiscal 2018 and 591 in fiscal 2023. The government attributes this to building construction and land development, and to the ground being covered by buildings and asphalt so that rainwater can no longer soak in.

And yet, as I said at the start, the figure for Tachikawa alone has not moved. In the count of spring sites by municipality, Tachikawa has 11 in every survey: fiscal 2003, 2008, 2013, 2018 and 2023. Over the twenty years in which Tokyo’s springs dwindled, Tachikawa did not lose a single one.

Why, the documents do not clearly say. To protect springs, the Metropolitan Government urges people to install rainwater infiltration basins, and in the action plan in its Environment Book the city of Tachikawa says it will continue to survey the Tachikawa cliff-line springs and will request, guide and subsidise the installation of rainwater infiltration facilities. At the end of the downpipe of a house above the cliff, in a basin in the corner of a garden, rain soaks into the ground. Each drop of it, some day, wells up in the Yagawa at the foot of the cliff.

The people who live above the cliff are feeding the stream below it. The people of the village 5,000 years ago lived above the cliff and drew water from below. The people of Tachikawa today live above the cliff, return the rain to the ground, and protect the water below. A town whose springs did not decline in twenty years can be proud — probably less of any landmark than of this unglamorous upkeep.

When I walk through Tachikawa’s residential streets, I make a point of thinking that next year’s spring water is flowing slowly under my feet. Some weekend morning, get off the Nambu Line at Yagawa Station and walk down to the foot of the cliff. You will probably be a little surprised that Tokyo still has the sound of water like this.

Quiz answer

The answer is (A), one. The only spring chosen from Tachikawa among the Metropolitan Government’s “Tokyo’s 57 Famous Springs” is number 22, the Yagawa Green Space. One of only 57 famous springs in all of Tokyo lies in a residential district within walking distance of a Nambu Line station.

Before you go

• From central Tokyo and Kanagawa: Take the JR Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Tachikawa (30 minutes), change to the Nambu Line and get off at Yagawa Station, 10 minutes away (according to the Bureau of Environment’s woodland trail leaflet). The Nambu Line links Kawasaki Station and Tachikawa Station, so from the Kawasaki side you can reach Yagawa Station without changing trains. Check that day’s timetable.
• Yagawa Green Space (Yagawa Green Space Conservation Area): Hagoromocho, Tachikawa; the government’s Famous Springs page gives 3-26 Hagoromocho, Tachikawa. The government’s “Yagawa–Aoyagi Course” starts at Yagawa Station on the Nambu Line, and its map shows the route from the station to the conservation area. From Tachikawa Station it is two stops on the Nambu Line (10 minutes according to the government leaflet).
• Walking course: The Tachikawa Tourism and Convention Association’s “Yagawa Green Space and Tachikawa South District Walking Course (Citizens’ Map 4)” is a loop of about two hours from JR Nishi-Kunitachi Station via the Mukogo site, Yagawa Benzaiten and the Yagawa Green Space and back. https://tokyo-tachikawa.org/course/course-14653/
• Longer walk: The government’s “Yagawa–Aoyagi Course” is 5.9 kilometres long. You can walk from the Yagawa Green Space via Mamashita Spring, the Yagawa Ondashi and the Shiroyama of Yaho to Yaho Station on the Nambu Line. https://www.kankyo.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/nature/natural_environment/tokyo/thicket_way/course_08
• Etiquette: Do not pick plants or take creatures in the conservation area; view the wetland from the boardwalks. The Yagawa Benzaiten is a precinct kept privately by one family; according to the association it is open 8:00–18:00 from April to October and 8:00–17:00 from November to March (hours may change, so follow the notices on site).
• The water: The Metropolitan Government does not recommend spring water for drinking. Dipping your hands in is as far as you should go.
• Yagawa Green Space (city of Tachikawa): https://www.city.tachikawa.lg.jp/kanko/sports/1002924/1003006.html
• Yagawa Green Space Conservation Area (Bureau of Environment): https://www.kankyo.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/nature/natural_environment/tokyo/area/07_yagawa/
• What to combine it with: From Nishi-Kunitachi Station, go a little west to the Nekawa greenway and Tachikawa Park, where cliff-line springs and a greenway built over a buried river continue. Back on the South Exit side of Tachikawa Station is Tachikawa Manga Park, housed in the old city hall.
• General tips: Carry an IC transit card such as Suica or PASMO for the change between the Chuo and Nambu lines, and wear shoes you don’t mind getting a little muddy near the wetland.

After the springs, at Tachikawa Station North Exit

After walking the Yagawa and taking the Nambu Line back to Tachikawa, the sounds of the town suddenly get louder. The sound of water you heard on the boardwalk still lingers a little in your ears. Your legs, after going up and down the cliff, carry a pleasant heaviness.

A one-minute walk from the North Exit of JR Tachikawa Station, on the third floor of the Etoile Building at 2-14-10 Akebonocho, Tachikawa, Tokyo, is On the Shore Tachikawa (オンザショア立川店). It is a lava-stone hot yoga studio, where you practise on a floor laid with lava-stone plates. It also offers room-temperature yoga, Pilates, women-only kickboxercise, boxercise, HIIT and personal training, with more than 25 kinds of yoga lessons.

It is open every day from 8:00 to 23:30, with no difference between days of the week. Whether you walk the Yagawa in the morning or come back after seeing the wetland at dusk, there is time to drop in.

A trial yoga lesson costs ¥1,980 including tax, with two bath towels, one face towel and a mat included as rentals, so you can come with nothing. Pregnant guests cannot join lava-stone hot yoga, but room-temperature maternity yoga is available.

Many of our yoga instructors speak English, and the studio’s owner, Naomi Fujita, who holds Japan’s top English qualification (Eiken Grade 1) and a perfect TOEIC score and once worked as a translator and overseas interpreter at Nomura Securities, and who lived in Alaska for three years, often helps guests from the US bases in English herself (visitors from abroad have even left Google reviews about the care they received in English); if you would like an English-friendly lesson, just say so when you book.

• On the Shore: https://ontheshore.jp/
• Trial lesson booking: https://site.locaop.jp/C0aVK?_src=hp

Rain that falls above the cliff takes its time and wells up below it. The rain falling on this town tonight will also, some day, surface somewhere along the Yagawa as winter water at 15 degrees.

Cover photo: A boardwalk crossing the wetland of the Yagawa Green Space, with reeds on both sides and woodland beyond (Photo: 珈琲牛乳 / CC BY 3.0 / Wikimedia Commons)

Information as of October 2026.

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