Cherry blossoms on the Zanbori River: flowers along “the river where only the ditch remains”
The name Zanbori (残堀) cannot help being read as zan (remaining) plus hori (ditch): “only the ditch remains.” And that is not entirely a joke.

Photo: Kiyo / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Wikimedia Commons
The Zanbori River rises at Sayama Pond in Mizuho, at the western end of the Sayama Hills, passes through Musashimurayama, Tachikawa and Akishima, and joins the Tama River at Shibasaki-cho in Tachikawa. It is 14.5 km long. Around Ichiban-cho in Tachikawa it crosses the Tamagawa Aqueduct; it then follows the western edge of Showa Kinen Park, turns south inside the park, and in Fujimi-cho bends at almost a right angle towards the Tama River.
This river has had its course changed again and again. When the Tamagawa Aqueduct came through in 1654, the river was connected to it. In the Meiji era, when its water became dirty, the authorities did not want it affecting the aqueduct, so between 1893 and 1908 it was rerouted to pass under the aqueduct and flow to the Tama River by way of the Negawa below the Tachikawa escarpment. In 1963 it was the other way round: the Tamagawa Aqueduct was made to pass under the Zanbori. The river and the aqueduct have taken turns going over and under each other. Old hands at the flyover.
In 1972, as a flood-control measure, the Zanbori was bent south-east at Shibasaki-cho 4-chome to run straight into the Tama River, and the lower Negawa was filled in. Read against this history of rerouting, the line in the green plan about the Negawa cherries extending to the Zanbori’s green path suddenly makes perfect sense. The river changed its course, and the cherries followed it.
The Zanbori, however, has an awkward habit. After river improvements carried out under a basin development plan drawn up in 1982, it began frequently suffering what is called sekire — the flow breaking off — so that, apart from during and just after rain, almost no flowing water can be seen at any time of year. In places, the encyclopedia says, it has become, true to its name, a river where only the ditch remains.
They say a name reveals its nature, but there is no need to be quite so faithful about it. Still, every spring, cherries bloom on the banks of this river. Whether the water is flowing or not, the flowers come out. The river’s moods and the cherries’ plans are separate matters.
There is a blog that has been recording night-time city walks for so long that its serial numbers have passed 5,000. In one entry, the writer looks down on the Zanbori from the corner of Tachikawa Bridge on the Shin-Okutama Kaido road, and writes that the river meanders, the greenery along it is beautiful, and in spring this area turns into a scene of rows of cherry trees. Tachikawa Bridge crosses the Zanbori just before it flows out into the Tama River. The cherries seem to be at their most splendid where this thin river makes its last big bend.
The Zanbori also flows through Showa Kinen Park. In the park’s Flowering Tree Garden there is the “former Cherry Garden,” and the park says that if you look north from Fureai Bridge, the pale pink of Somei-Yoshino, the deep pink of Yoko cherries and the yellow of forsythia overlap along the Zanbori. Inside the park and out, the same river flows with cherries in tow.
The green plan uses the phrase “the green of the Zanbori River” for the way it runs north to south through the city, linking the farmland of the north, Showa Kinen Park in the middle, the greenery of the Tachikawa escarpment in the south, and the green spaces of the Tama River. Even when the water dries up, the green line is not broken. In spring, it becomes a line of flowers.
Tachikawa’s cherry blossoms in numbers
- 10 — metres. The spacing at which Taisho-era villagers planted cherries on both banks of the Negawa. Even for a celebration, they kept to the spacing.
- About 250 — trees. The number of cherries on the Negawa Greenway, according to a local community magazine’s website. Mountain cherries upstream, Somei-Yoshino downstream.
- 14.5 — kilometres. The length of the Zanbori River. Along much of it, the cherries are more reliable than the water.
- 31 — varieties. The kinds of cherry in Showa Kinen Park. Half of its roughly 1,500 trees are Somei-Yoshino.
- 24 March — the normal date for the first Somei-Yoshino blossoms in Tokyo. Recently, though, they have opened on 14 March and on 29 March. The word “normal” has less and less to stand on each year.
- 1.6 — kilometres. The length of Sakae Ryokuchi, the green path along the old rail spur into the base. Instead of freight, it now carries a line of mountain cherries.
A wayfarer’s quiz
What was the occasion for planting cherry trees on both banks of the Negawa? (A) The opening of Tachikawa Airfield (B) The enthronement of Emperor Taisho (C) The Tokyo Olympics. The answer is at the end.
Having walked the rivers of the south, I head north, to Tachikawa’s other line of water: an aqueduct from the Edo period.
初日の汗は、予約した人だけが持ち帰れる。
Cherries on the Tamagawa Aqueduct: the blossom tunnel at Tomoe Gashi
The Tamagawa Aqueduct (玉川上水) is a water channel that runs about 43 km from its intake at Hamura to Yotsuya Okido in Shinjuku. It is said to have been built in 1653 to bring water to the city of Edo (old Tokyo). The section through Tachikawa is about 5.6 km long and crosses Ichiban-cho, Kamisuna-cho, Sunagawa-cho, Kashiwa-cho and Saiwai-cho. In August 2003 it was designated a national historic site. The history of the aqueduct itself I walked in detail in our Tamagawa Aqueduct and Sunagawa article.
What I want to write about here is the aqueduct in spring. On Course B of the walking map published by the City of Tachikawa — the roughly 3.8 km, roughly 57-minute walk from Musashi-Sunagawa Station to Tachikawa City Hall — the first highlight is the site of Tomoe Gashi, a riverboat landing. Between 1870 and 1872, boats were allowed on the Tamagawa Aqueduct, and several boats a day came and went, carrying goods and even sightseers. And the map says: there are many old cherry trees around here, and in spring they become a tunnel of cherry blossom.
Boats floated on the aqueduct for only about two years. Now, at the site of their landing, cherries form a tunnel. If a Meiji-era boatman saw this view, he might have preferred a blossom picnic to taking his boat out.
The trees along the aqueduct have long been a worry, too. According to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Bureau of Waterworks, when trees beside the aqueduct grew large they dropped too many leaves and got in the way of managing the channel, so big trees used to be felled. The trees that adorn the water become a nuisance to the water when they grow too big.
The idea of planting cherries on the aqueduct’s banks was born downstream of Tachikawa in the first place. In 1737, Kawasaki Heiemon, a manager of the new farm villages of Musashino acting on the orders of the eighth shogun, Tokugawa Yoshimune, had several thousand mountain cherry saplings brought from Mount Yoshino in Nara and from Sakuragawa in Hitachi Province, and planted them on both banks around Koganei Bridge, both to encourage the new villages and to protect the aqueduct’s banks. This was the start of the Koganei cherries, which in 1924 became the first cherry trees in Japan designated a national Place of Scenic Beauty.
Cherries planted to protect the banks get felled when they grow too big. Three hundred years of aqueduct and cherry trees seem to have been a cycle of planting and felling, felling and planting. Today the City of Tachikawa is surveying the trees on the stretches of the aqueduct’s green path that it manages, attaching management tags to the trees concerned and asking people not to remove them. The small tags on the cherry trunks are the latest form of a worry that has lasted more than three hundred years.
Number one of the Twelve Green Views of Tachikawa is this part of the Tamagawa Aqueduct, around what was Sunagawa Ichiban. The theme is “the original landscape.” The city says its highlights are the clear stream, opened in the Edo period, flowing through the Musashino woods, and the walking path in the dappled light. Even after cherry season, the edge of the aqueduct remains a tunnel of green.
Further west of the aqueduct, in Nakazato in Nishi-Sunagawa, is Rinsen-ji Temple, founded in 1729 as the family temple of the people of Nakazato Shinden, a new farm village. The city’s guide to walking routes, in a short text introducing the temple, adds just one line: in spring, the cherry blossoms are beautiful. News of flowers slipped quietly into a text about a temple’s origins. I suspect I would get on with the city employee who writes lines like that.
That is the end of the cherries on the lines of water. Next comes the other kind of line: the one that cut through this city as long as any river or aqueduct. The airfield, and the base.
Cherries on a freight spur and under the monorail: Sakae Ryokuchi and Izumi-Taiikukan
From the south-eastern tip of Sakae-cho, a green path of about 1.6 km runs north-west straight through the district to the Imokubo Kaido road. This is Sakae Ryokuchi (栄緑地, “Sakae Green Space”). In the days of Tachikawa Air Base — the airfield that was a Japanese army base before the war and a US Air Force base after it, until it was returned to Japan — this was a rail spur used to carry supplies. The city says it was laid out as the first step in using the former base land, and completed as a walking path in 1980.
On both sides of the path are tall trees such as zelkova, mountain cherry and sweet viburnum, with shrubs such as azaleas and seasonal flowers planted without a break. The sunny, bright path is just right for a leisurely stroll, the city’s guide continues.
Where freight trains once ran, mountain cherries now stand in a row. On one line, the cargo has changed from supplies to flowers. To me it also seems symbolic that the return of the base reached citizens first in the form of a walking path. The first thing given back was a path where cherries bloom.
There is an interesting point about the difference between mountain cherries and Somei-Yoshino. People tend to think Somei-Yoshino bloom and fall faster than mountain cherries, but that is a misconception, it is said. Somei-Yoshino are clones of a single cultivated variety, propagated by grafting, so in any one place they all open at once and all fall at once. Wild mountain cherries, by contrast, flower at different times from tree to tree. Compare a single tree with a single tree and it is actually the Somei-Yoshino whose flowers last longer.
Because they all bloom together and all fall together, they look fleeting. Bloom in your own time and you look long-lasting. In the human world, too, this rings a bell or two.
Telling the two apart is not so hard. Somei-Yoshino flowers open before the leaves, and the leaves come out just after full bloom. Mountain cherries usually open their reddish young leaves and flowers at the same time. If you see reddish-brown leaves peeking out among the flowers, you can take it to be a mountain cherry. It was mountain cherries that the people of Edo planted along the aqueduct at Koganei, and mountain cherries that are said to be common on the upper Negawa. If you walk Sakae Ryokuchi, look at the colour of the leaves before the flowers.
Lines are drawn in the sky, too. Izumi-Taiikukan Station on the Tama Monorail is named after the Izumi Civic Gymnasium, a public facility of the City of Tachikawa, and the company’s station guide says the area has become a famous cherry-blossom spot even among those along the monorail line, with many visitors every year to the tunnel of cherry blossom around the gymnasium. The gymnasium is at 786-11 Izumi-cho, a one-minute walk from the station.
Izumi-Taiikukan Station is between Tamagawa-Josui Station to the north and Tachikawa-Kita Station to the south, and the monorail runs on an elevated track. In spring you can look down on the cherry tunnel from up there. Blossom viewing on foot, or blossom viewing from the sky. In Tachikawa, you can choose either.
Cherry blossoms in Showa Kinen Park: where to see 31 varieties and about 1,500 trees
And the biggest cherry spot on the former base land is Showa Kinen Park (国営昭和記念公園). I walked the park’s history and its four seasons in detail in another article, so here I will only briefly cover where to see the cherries.

Photo: KCyamazaki / CC BY-SA 4.0 / Wikimedia Commons
The park has about 1,500 cherry trees of 31 varieties, half of them Somei-Yoshino. The best time is late March to mid-April. The places to go are the “Cherry Garden” near the Minna no Harappa (“Everyone’s Meadow”) and the “former Cherry Garden” in the Flowering Tree Garden. The Cherry Garden has big trees about 50 years old, many with branches that droop down to the eye level of someone sitting on the ground. In the flower field of the meadow, rapeseed blossoms are timed to open with the cherries, with the Cherry Garden lined up behind them. The tulips at the Valley Stream Plaza are also at their best from late March to mid-April, almost exactly overlapping the cherries.
A word, too, on where the name Somei-Yoshino comes from. Somei-Yoshino is believed to have been raised, between the end of the Edo period and the start of the Meiji era, by the garden designers and tree growers gathered in the village of Somei in Edo, around today’s Komagome in Toshima Ward. At first, it is said, it was sold under the names “Yoshino” and “Yoshino cherry.” Because Somei-Yoshino bears masses of showy flowers before its leaves, grows quickly and blooms while still young, it spread from the Meiji era onwards as a variety well suited to creating famous cherry spots, and after the Second World War it was planted all over the country at an explosive rate, the encyclopedia says. Many of Japan’s famous cherry spots, in other words, bloom on top of a nurseryman’s work.
Back to Tachikawa. The city’s green plan says Tachikawa is known nationwide as a town that produces high-quality nursery trees. If the star of blossom viewing was born in a village of tree growers, then Tachikawa, which holds famous blossom spots of its own, is a town of tree growers too. The bond between cherries and nurserymen runs closer than you might think.
The flower of Tokyo, too, is the Somei-Yoshino. It was chosen in June 1984 by the Tokyo Metropolitan flower selection committee. Incidentally, when the Tokyo Metropolitan tree was chosen, Somei-Yoshino was also a candidate, but it lost to the ginkgo in a vote by Tokyo residents. The story of that election I will tell in our article on autumn in Tachikawa.
There is one more “back then” I want to note. Until the second half of the 1970s, the very middle of Tachikawa was behind a fence. Tachikawa Air Base was fully returned in 1977. In 1980, as the first step in using the returned land, the old rail spur became Sakae Ryokuchi. And on 26 October 1983, Showa Kinen Park first opened, with 70 ha including the Minna no Harappa and the Flowering Tree Garden. The Flowering Tree Garden, home of the former Cherry Garden, was part of those first 70 ha.
Today, most of the young people spreading their picnic sheets in the park in spring do not know the days when this was a runway and a base. Some older people may remember the base as seen through the fence. On the same land, in less than half a century, the view has changed from a fence to cherry blossom.
Showa Kinen Park gets crowded in flower season. But if you have read this far, you already know: Tachikawa’s cherries go on outside the park as well, long and narrow.
Why do Tachikawa’s cherries bloom along lines?
Let me go back to the first question. Why do Tachikawa’s cherries bloom only in long, narrow places?
Laid side by side, the answer was simple. The Negawa cherries were planted at regular intervals on the bank of a spring-fed stream by Taisho-era villagers. The Zanbori cherries extended along a river, following it after it was rerouted. The Tamagawa Aqueduct cherries line an Edo-period aqueduct and the site of a Meiji-era landing. The mountain cherries of Sakae Ryokuchi were planted on the track of a rail spur into the base. The cherries of Showa Kinen Park bloom on land returned from an airfield and a base. The cherries of Izumi-Taiikukan stand beneath a line in the sky, the monorail.
Tachikawa’s cherries bloom along the lines that have been drawn across this city. One is the line of water; another is the line of the airfield and the base; and then there are the lines of the roads and tracks laid where those used to be. People drew water, bent rivers, laid track and pulled it up again, and afterwards someone planted cherries. So when you draw a map of the cherries, it turns straight into a map of Tachikawa’s history.
So where did Tamazakura, the cherry in front of the Meiji station, go? Probably nowhere. The single tree in front of the station is gone, but the city’s habit — people stepping off the train and taking a cherry tree as their landmark — has stayed. A hundred years later, when people chose the twelve green views, they chose a cherry bank once again.
In spring in Tachikawa, choose one line of cherries and walk it. If the river has run dry partway along, never mind. The flowers, as a rule, turn up as promised.
Quiz answer
The answer is (B), the enthronement of Emperor Taisho. According to the Tachikawa Green Master Plan, to commemorate the enthronement of Emperor Taisho, the people of the former Shibasaki Village planted cherries every 10 m along both banks of the Negawa for 1.3 km. The place later became a cherry-blossom spot of Tokyo City, and many writers and poets visited.
Before you go
- When to go: Showa Kinen Park gives the best viewing time for its cherries as late March to mid-April. First bloom moves by about half a month from year to year, so check that year’s flower news (Japanese): https://www.showakinen-koen.jp/flower-information/
- Negawa Greenway (Tachikawa Park): about 15 minutes’ walk from the South Exit of JR Tachikawa Station, or about 1 minute from Shibasaki-Taiikukan Station on the Tama Monorail (according to the city). Downstream, from around Kaigarazaka Bridge to the Koshu Kaido road, the old Negawa with its earth banks survives. Details (Japanese): https://www.city.tachikawa.lg.jp/kanko/sports/1002924/1003007.html
- Zanbori River: the upstream end of the Negawa Greenway begins around where the Zanbori meets the Okutama Bypass (according to the city), so you can walk the two together. The river may have little water.
- Izumi-Taiikukan cherries: 1 minute’s walk from Izumi-Taiikukan Station on the Tama Monorail. Or from the North Exit of JR Tachikawa Station, take a Tachikawa Bus bound for Murayama Danchi, get off at “Izumi Shimin Taiikukan” (泉市民体育館) and walk 1 minute (according to the city).
- Tomoe Gashi on the Tamagawa Aqueduct: the first highlight of Course B on the city’s walking map (Musashi-Sunagawa Station on the Seibu Haijima Line to Tachikawa City Hall, about 3.8 km, about 57 minutes). The aqueduct green path (Japanese): https://www.city.tachikawa.lg.jp/kanko/sports/1002924/1002996.html
- Sakae Ryokuchi: a green path of about 1.6 km from the south-eastern tip of Sakae-cho to the Imokubo Kaido road (Japanese): https://www.city.tachikawa.lg.jp/kanko/sports/1002924/1002995.html
- Showa Kinen Park: the Akebono Gate is about 10 minutes from the North Exit of JR Tachikawa Station; the Nishi-Tachikawa Gate is about 2 minutes from Nishi-Tachikawa Station on the JR Ome Line (according to the park). Check admission, opening hours and closing days on the official site: https://www.showakinen-koen.jp/
- Getting to Tachikawa: from Shinjuku, take the JR Chuo Line; Tachikawa is on the line, with no change needed. Check the current timetable before you set off, and carry an IC card such as Suica or PASMO for the trains, monorail and buses.
- Combine it with: from the Negawa Greenway in the south, carry on to Fusai-ji Temple and Suwa Shrine, and in half a day you can walk both the old village of Tachikawa and its cherries. In the north, go from the Tamagawa Aqueduct to Azusami Tenjin-sha Shrine.
- Blossom-viewing manners: the City of Tachikawa publishes guidance on using its parks. Take your rubbish home with you. Do not break or shake branches; the old trees on the Negawa are being nursed back to health by volunteers.
After the blossoms, the North Exit
When you finish walking one line of cherries, your legs are more tired than you expected. Blossom viewing is a walk with your face turned upwards, and your neck and shoulders stiffen more than you think.
One minute’s walk from the North Exit of JR Tachikawa Station, on the third floor of the Etoile Building at 2-14-10 Akebonocho, Tachikawa, is On the Shore Tachikawa (オンザショア立川店), a hot yoga studio heated by lava-stone plates. Besides lava-stone hot yoga, it offers room-temperature yoga, Pilates, women-only kickboxercise, boxercise, HIIT and personal training, with more than 25 kinds of yoga lesson.
It is open every day from 8:00 to 23:30. Whether you drop in after the morning blossoms or on your way back from cherries by night, there is time.
A trial yoga lesson costs ¥1,980 including tax, with two bath towels, one face towel and a yoga mat included in the rental. Fold up your picnic sheet and come straight over, just as you are.
Pregnant guests cannot take part in lava-stone hot yoga, but room-temperature maternity yoga is available. Many of our yoga instructors speak English, and the studio’s owner, Naomi Fujita, who holds Japan’s top English qualification (Eiken Grade 1) and a perfect TOEIC score and once worked as a translator and overseas interpreter at Nomura Securities, and who lived in Alaska for three years, often helps guests from the US bases in English herself (visitors from abroad have even left Google reviews about the care they received in English); if you would like an English-friendly lesson, just say so when you book.
Studio information: https://ontheshore.jp/ — trial lesson booking: https://site.locaop.jp/C0aVK?_src=hp
In the Meiji era, there was a cherry tree with a name in front of the station. Start walking from today’s station, and the lines of cherries stretch out in every direction.
Cover photo: Taken in Tachikawa in April 2015: a band of cherry trees in full bloom beyond a flower field. (Photo: sii_side / CC BY 2.0 / Wikimedia Commons)
Information as of October 2026.
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初日の汗は、予約した人だけが持ち帰れる。
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