Tachikawa Old Villages Walk: History Guide, Shibasaki to Nishisuna

The Kyoho new fields: where did Tonogaya, Nakazato and Miyazawa come from?

The first village born on the northern wild land was Sunagawa. Development began at the start of the Edo period, and with water from the Tamagawa Aqueduct and the Sunagawa branch canal it became a long village of strip-shaped house plots along the Itsukaichi Kaido road. The Tamagawa Aqueduct and Sunagawa episode of this series walks that story. What I want to follow here are the villages born after it.

According to Tachikawa Monogatari, after the development of the early Edo period, as woodland and wild land shrank and fertiliser and firewood became harder to get, villages began to oppose further development, and the shogunate stopped approving new projects. Then in 1722, as part of the Kyoho Reforms, the shogunate changed course. To raise more rice tax, it encouraged the development of new fields. It pressed even the villages that had opposed development, and the result was a crop of new-field villages across the Tama area, six of them in the Tachikawa area.

Three of those six are around today’s Nishisuna-cho: Tonogaya Shinden, Nakazato Shinden and Miyazawa Shinden. (Shinden, 新田, literally “new field,” is the word for a village founded on newly cleared land.)

According to Tachikawa City’s walking course “Walking Nishi-Sunagawa and the Tonogaya Canal Site,” in 1720 the Tonogaya branch canal was drawn from the Tamagawa Aqueduct to develop these three new fields. Its former course has been turned into a footpath that keeps traces of the canal: today’s Tonogaya Green Path.

Line up the dates in the city’s guide and you notice something interesting. The Tonogaya canal: 1720. The founding of Shinmei-sha, the guardian shrine of Nakazato Shinden: around 1718. The shogunate’s change of policy to encourage new fields: 1722. The water and the god arrived before the shogunate’s order. It looks as if, by the time the order went out, some people already had their hoes in hand.

The three villages were opened by people from three different places.

Miyazawa Shinden was developed at the beginning of the Kyoho era (1716–1736) by people from Miyazawa Village, now Akishima City. Nakazato Shinden was opened around the same time by Nakazato Ihei of Kawasaki Village, now Hamura City, using the Tonogaya canal. And Tonogaya Shinden was opened by people from Tonogaya Village. Tonogaya Village, now Mizuho Town, is where the head shrine of Sunagawa’s Azusami Tenjin Shrine stands.

From Akishima, from Hamura, from Mizuho. People came out onto the wild land from villages up the Tama River and at the foot of the Sayama Hills. In new-field development, the original village is called the oya-mura, the “parent village.” At the western edge of Tachikawa, three child villages from three parent villages stood side by side.

A personal website by someone who walked the Itsukaichi Kaido making sketches has a passage about Sunagawa’s 9th and 10th blocks, which spread eastward after the Kyoho Reforms: the plots there have quite wide frontages, it says, and every house has a relaxed, roomy air. Land opened later was divided more generously. How the three new fields of Nishisuna were divided, I have not been able to find out. But close your eyes and you can picture people who came late to the wild land, dividing their fields with wide frontages.

A detour quiz for travellers

At the start of the Kyoho era, Nakazato Ihei opened Nakazato Shinden using the Tonogaya canal. Which village was he from?

• A — Miyazawa Village (now Akishima City)
• B — Kawasaki Village (now Hamura City)
• C — Tonogaya Village (now Mizuho Town)

The answer is near the end of this article.

A village cannot move with people alone. There was something the settlers of the wild land brought with them first.

Villages move house with their gods

Walk the three new fields of Nishisuna and you find that every village brought its god from its parent village.

Suwa Shrine in Miyazawa Shinden enshrines the ujigami, the guardian god, of the parent village, Miyazawa. Its deity is Takeminakata no Mikoto. In its grounds, the city’s guide says, there is a small shrine said to work wonders for eye diseases. Azusami Tenjin Shrine in Tonogaya Shinden was brought from the head shrine in Tonogaya Village as the village’s guardian god, and it is a sibling shrine of the Azusami Tenjin Shrine in Sunagawa’s 4th block. In its grounds stands a monument to the Tonogaya canal. The monument to the water that gave birth to the village stands in the grounds of the god the village brought with it.

Shinmei-sha in Nakazato Shinden was established around 1718 as Nakazato Shinden’s guardian shrine, and was at first called Shinmei Inari-sha. Later it merged with a nearby Atago shrine to become Shinmei Atago-sha, and later still simply Shinmei-sha. Its deity is Amaterasu, the sun goddess. And, the city’s guide says, it originally stood at the western end of Nakazato Shinden, but moved to its present site because of the expansion of Yokota Air Base, the US air base just to the west.

A village god born on the Kyoho wild land was, some two hundred and fifty years later, pushed by a base into moving again. The Japanese Wikipedia article on Nishisuna-cho has the line that the whole of Nishisuna-cho 7-chome lies inside the grounds of Yokota Air Base. A district that bears a Tachikawa City address but lies entirely inside a base. On the map, the reason the Nakazato god moved from the western end seems to overlap with that line.

The temples moved too. Gyokurin-ji in Tonogaya Shinden is a temple of the Kencho-ji branch of the Rinzai school of Zen, and a subsidiary of Fusai-ji. It was originally founded in the parent village of Tonogaya, but was moved here in the Genbun era (1736–1741) as the family temple of the people of Tonogaya Shinden. Rinsen-ji, the family temple of the people of Nakazato Shinden, was founded in 1729, with the mountain name Takaoyama. In spring, the city’s guide says, its cherry trees bloom beautifully. The Shinpen Musashi Fudokiko, a 19th-century gazetteer of Musashi Province, is said to record a connection with Seigan-in in Fussa City.

Seen this way, nearly all the gods of Tachikawa’s old villages “came from elsewhere.” Shibasaki’s Suwa Shrine is said to have been invited from Suwa in Shinshu (Nagano) in 811. Sunagawa’s Azusami Tenjin Shrine was branched off from Tonogaya Village in 1629. Sunagawa’s Kokage Shrine is a silkworm god brought in 1860 from Tsukuba District in old Hitachi Province, now Tsukuba City, Ibaraki. Miyazawa Shinden’s Suwa Shrine came from Akishima, Tonogaya Shinden’s Azusami Tenjin from Mizuho. And Shibasaki’s Hachiman Shrine moved into the grounds of Suwa Shrine in 1907.

At the top of the moving boxes sits a god. That, in short, is the history of Tachikawa’s old villages. The people who moved onto the wild land carried their home gods on their backs, along with hoes and seed. When they spent unfamiliar nights on unfamiliar land, the most reliable companion was surely the god they had prayed to back home.

So what became of villages that had come from scattered parent villages?

1879: the villages become one

According to Tachikawa Monogatari, in December 1879 Sunagawa Village absorbed Imokubo Shinden, Tonogaya Shinden, Miyazawa Shinden, Nakazato Shinden and Hirasawa Shinden. The child villages born on the Kyoho wild land came together here into one village, Sunagawa. Eighty-four years later, in 1963, Sunagawa town merged with Tachikawa City, giving today’s Tachikawa its shape. Shibasaki, Sunagawa and six new-field villages. Land that in the Middle Ages had only one village became, in this way, one city.

The name “Nishisuna-cho” you see on the map today is newer still. After the merger, the reorganisation of district names and lot numbers in former Sunagawa town proceeded from Sakae-cho in 1970 onward, and Nishisuna-cho joined the list in 1983. The three new fields of Tonogaya, Nakazato and Miyazawa reached a single district name after some 260 years, just a few years before the Showa era ended. For the Kyoho villages, it was only yesterday.

What conveys the texture of life in the Sunagawa villages survives not so much in buildings as in something unexpected: banners.

According to Tachikawa City’s notes on cultural properties, at the end of the Edo period, Sunagawa raised huge banners at shrine festivals to pray for a good harvest. Banners of the 5th, 8th, 9th and 10th groups survive, and the 10th group’s banner is especially well preserved, down to the banner, the pole and the carved parts.

Its size is extraordinary. Made in 1848, the banner is 14.6 metres long and 2.2 metres wide. The pole is about 22 metres long. It is said to be among the largest in the whole Kanto region. Twenty-two metres is roughly the height of a seven-storey building. The villagers raised it themselves. On festival morning, the shouts must have been loud.

The characters on the banner, 御祭禮, “Festival,” were written by Honda Kakuan, a calligrapher of Yabo Village, now Kunitachi City. They asked the calligrapher of the next village to write the biggest characters in the village. The decorative carving on the clamp that holds the pole at its base takes as its motif shishi no ko-otoshi, the old tale of the lion who throws its cub into a ravine to test it, a byword in Japan for tough love. The carver is unknown. At the foot of a 22-metre pole, a lion is dropping its cub into the valley. At the base of a banner praying for a good harvest, they carved the hardness of raising children. What were the village grown-ups trying to say?

In the same year, 1848, Sunagawa’s 8th group put up a stone monument to Bato Kannon, the horse-headed Kannon, about 2.3 metres high, one of the biggest in the city, according to Tachikawa City’s walking-course guide. In the Edo period horses were important workers that carried goods, and Sunagawa had many of them; the monument was raised in gratitude. A 22-metre banner and one of the city’s largest Bato Kannon. Sunagawa in 1848, apparently, was in the mood to build things big.

The storehouse of the Suzaki family, who served as group head of Sunagawa’s 8th group, also survives. It is a three-storey earthen storehouse from the late Edo or early Meiji period, once used as a pawnshop’s storehouse when the family ran a pawn business. Three storeys is rare for such a building, and its beams and walls use zelkova wood generously. It has been moved to the Old Folk Houses Garden in Kawagoemichi Ryokuchi, which is closed for renovation until the end of March 2027. A group head’s house in the new fields had a three-storey pawn storehouse. Within a century and a half, the village that cleared the wild land had raised a family on the lending side of money.

The banner went to the museum; the storehouse went to the old-houses garden. Here too, old things have survived by leaving their original places.

Why Tachikawa’s old village sites are all ato

Why are the historic sites of Tachikawa’s old villages nothing but ato?

Half of what I learned by walking is this. Tachikawa’s old villages burned again and again, and moved again and again. Hachiman Shrine burned twice in wildfires, moved into Suwa Shrine in Meiji, and burned once more in Heisei. Mangan-ji disappeared in the anti-Buddhist movement. The school built its own building and moved away in Taisho. The new fields of the northern wild land came carrying gods from their parent villages, and one of those gods, some two hundred and fifty years later, was pushed by a base into moving again. For every thing that moved, an ato was left behind.

But the other half looks like this to me. There are so many ato not because so much was lost, but because the people of this land made a point of remembering what moved. When a shrine moved, they set up a stone at the old site. When a temple vanished, they designated its well a historic site. When a school moved, they raised a stone at its birthplace. When a canal fell out of use, they made it a green path and kept its name. Forget, and not even an ato remains. Tachikawa’s ato are the dutiful notes left behind by villages that kept moving house.

Some things have stayed put: the things people do. Shibasaki’s shishimai lion dance is said to have begun in the Genroku era and has continued for about 300 years. According to the city, every year at the joint grand festival of Suwa and Hachiman shrines in late August, the dancers set out from the lion lodge in Shibasaki-cho 1-chome, with four bo-tsukai staff dancers clearing the way ahead, and dance into the shrine grounds. To conch shell, flute and song, two male lions, one female lion and a tengu, a long-nosed mountain goblin, dance. There are twelve dances in all, called juni-gurui, “the twelve frenzies.” Dancing all of them takes two hours.

The dance was carried on by small neighbourhood groups. According to the city-history newsletter, until the Tachikawa City Lion Dance Preservation Society was formed in 1963, the same year as the merger with Sunagawa, the dancers were divided among Shibasaki-cho’s Banba, Yokocho, Deguchi and Shin-yashiki, and Fujimi-cho’s Dai, Takinoue and Yamanaka. Banba, Yokocho, Deguchi, Shin-yashiki. Dai, Takinoue, Yamanaka. Say them aloud in a row, and a map of the villages above and below the terrace rises up. Back then, the lions danced carrying the names of small neighbourhood groups. Now one preservation society keeps the same dance under one name.

At the festival of a Hachiman that burned, moved and burned again, the lions have danced in along the same road for 300 years. Holding it up every year are the people of Shibasaki and Fujimi who each summer tune their flutes and songs and put on the lion heads. Even when the buildings have become ato, as long as those people are there, the old village is not over.

Some weekend, ideally in late August, get off the Chuo Line at Tachikawa, about 30 minutes from Shinjuku, and walk down the terrace from the South Exit. Within walking distance of the station building, a 30,000-year-old kitchen, a 440-year-old prayer and the lions’ road lie on top of one another.

Answer to the detour quiz

The answer is B, Kawasaki Village (now Hamura City). According to Tachikawa City’s walking course “Walking Nishi-Sunagawa and the Tonogaya Canal Site,” early in the Kyoho era Nakazato Ihei of Kawasaki Village developed Nakazato Shinden using the Tonogaya canal. The founder’s family name became the village’s name. Miyazawa Shinden was opened by people from Miyazawa Village and Tonogaya Shinden by people from Tonogaya Village; in those cases, the parent village’s name became the new field’s name.

Before you go

• Getting there: about 30 minutes from Shinjuku on the JR Chuo Line (according to a leaflet from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s Bureau of Environment), and 40 minutes from Tokyo Station by Special Rapid (according to Tachikawa City). From Kanagawa, the JR Nambu Line links Kawasaki Station with Tachikawa Station, so you can come from Kawasaki without changing trains. Check times on the day’s timetable. Carry an IC card such as Suica or PASMO to save buying tickets each time.
• To walk old Shibasaki: Tachikawa City’s walking course “Walking the Old Village” starts from the South Exit of JR Tachikawa Station and shows, with a map, a route taking in Suwa and Hachiman shrines, the Nakajima family gate, the Great Zelkova of Hachiman Shrine, the Mangan-ji site, the Shibasaki branch canal, Fusai-ji Temple, Yamanakazaka Jizo Hall, the Museum of History and Folklore and a Fuji-zuka mound (page in Japanese): https://www.city.tachikawa.lg.jp/kanko/bunka/1004244/1004848/1004889.html
• Locations of the main sites (according to Tachikawa City’s notes on designated cultural properties): Hachiman Shrine main hall site, in front of 1-7-17 Shibasaki-cho; Great Zelkova of Hachiman Shrine, by 1-7-8 Shibasaki-cho; Mangan-ji site, in front of 1-9-2 Shibasaki-cho; Owada site, around 4-5-8 to 12 Shibasaki-cho. The Nakajima family gate belongs to a private home, so please look quietly from the street.
• The “Birthplace of the School” stone, the Owada site, Sawa Inari shrine and the Nekawa Green Path are gathered on the walking course “From Yagawa toward the Tama River,” which starts at JR Nishi-Kunitachi Station: https://www.city.tachikawa.lg.jp/kanko/bunka/1004244/1004848/1004890.html
• To walk the three new fields of Nishisuna: the walking course “Walking Nishi-Sunagawa and the Tonogaya Canal Site” starts at Seibu-Tachikawa Station on the Seibu Haijima Line and takes in Suwa Shrine, the Tonogaya Green Path, Shinmei-sha, Rinsen-ji, Azusami Tenjin Shrine and Gyokurin-ji: https://www.city.tachikawa.lg.jp/kanko/bunka/1004244/1004848/1004894.html
• The city’s walking-course guides do not give walking times. Check the route on each course’s map image.
• The honji Buddha, the Mangan-ji boards, the great banner of Sunagawa’s 10th group, the Shibasaki village map and other items are kept by the Tachikawa Museum of History and Folklore (3-12-34 Fujimi-cho, Tachikawa). They are not necessarily on display, so check the permanent and special exhibitions before you go. A 20-minute walk from Nishi-Tachikawa Station on the JR Ome Line, or from the South Exit of JR Tachikawa Station take a bus bound for “Shindo Fukushima” or “Fujimicho Soshajo,” get off at “Danchi Nishi” and walk 5 minutes. Admission is free (according to Tachikawa City): https://www.city.tachikawa.lg.jp/kanko/bunka/1004244/1004849/1004905.html
• The Suzaki family’s three-storey storehouse and the Kobayashi family house are in the Old Folk Houses Garden at Kawagoemichi Ryokuchi (4-65 Saiwai-cho, Tachikawa). However, the garden is scheduled to be closed for renovation of its facilities from 1 June 2026 to 31 March 2027, and cannot be visited during that time (according to Tachikawa City). Admission is free; it is closed on Mondays (or the following day when Monday is a public or substitute holiday) and over the New Year holidays. Check the city’s page for when it reopens: https://www.city.tachikawa.lg.jp/shisetsu/1008065/1008100.html
• Shrines and temples here are places of worship in residential streets. Keep your voice down, do not block the narrow lanes, and treat the stone markers in front of homes as part of someone’s doorstep.
• Combine it with: Fusai-ji Temple and Suwa Shrine at the centre of old Shibasaki, the Nekawa Green Path and the Tama River below the terrace, and Sunagawa and the Tamagawa Aqueduct to the north each have their own episode in this series.

After walking the sites: the North Exit of Tachikawa Station

A walk around historic sites covers more ground than you expect. You go down the terrace south of the station, climb back up, and go back and forth along residential lanes looking for stone markers. Before you know it, your calves are tight. If you want to loosen your legs before heading home, On the Shore Tachikawa (オンザショア立川店) is a 1-minute walk from the North Exit of Tachikawa Station, on the 3rd floor of the Etoile Building, 2-14-10 Akebonocho, Tachikawa, Tokyo. If you have walked up from the South Exit, just pass through the station to the north side.

It is a lava-stone hot yoga studio, where you practise yoga in a room heated with lava stones. It also offers room-temperature yoga, Pilates, women-only kickboxercise, boxercise, HIIT and personal training, with more than 25 kinds of yoga lessons.

It is open every day, 8:00 to 23:30, with the same hours whatever the day. You can walk the old village in the cool of the morning and take a lesson before noon, or walk the Nishisuna green paths until evening and drop in afterwards.

For first-timers there is a trial yoga lesson for ¥1,980 (tax included), with two bath towels, one face towel and a mat rental included. Pregnant guests cannot join lava-stone hot yoga, but room-temperature maternity yoga is available. Many of our yoga instructors speak English, and the studio’s owner, Naomi Fujita, who holds Japan’s top English qualification (Eiken Grade 1) and a perfect TOEIC score and once worked as a translator and overseas interpreter at Nomura Securities, and who lived in Alaska for three years, often helps guests from the US bases in English herself (visitors from abroad have even left Google reviews about the care they received in English); if you would like an English-friendly lesson, just say so when you book.

• On the Shore: https://ontheshore.jp/
• Trial lesson booking: https://site.locaop.jp/C0aVK?_src=hp

Below the terrace south of the station, the branch of the Shibasaki canal is still reading the faintest slopes, carrying water from house to house.

Cover photo: The Tamagawa Aqueduct seen from Mikage Bridge in Tachikawa, flowing between cobblestone banks and trees (Photo: sewmew / Public domain / Wikimedia Commons)

Information as of October 2026.

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